A clown in Sao Paulo’s 'Cracolandia'

Cracolandia is situated in Sao Paulo's historic city center. Crack, the dangerous drug after which this down-at-heel neighborhood is named, first emerged here in 1990. Since then, the number of drug users has exploded in the South American city. In 2019, some 57,000 drug users from this neighborhood alone were treated — though this only represents the tip of the iceberg.

Visitors to Cracolandia soon realize why this neighborhood is named after the infamous drug. Dealers sell the substance in broad daylight, for less than the equivalent of a euro per dose. What may look like a regular weekday market is actually a major open air drug market, with users inhabiting nearby traffic islands and parks.

Flavio Falcone is one of the few non-users who works in Cracolandia. He runs a rehabilitation program called Teto, Trampo, Tratamento — or Roof, Work and Treatment — designed to help users get their lives back on track. But many refuse treatment.

That's why in 2012, Falcone began donning a clown outfit before heading out onto the streets of Cracolandia. He says being dressed up makes strangers more open to engaging with him. Whereas as a doctor, some may be more hesitant to reach out.

Together with actress Andrea Macera, Falcone manages to cheer up some of the residents of Cracolandia. This young man — pictured in the center — was born in the neighborhood.

Falcone says part of his role is to treat drug users respectfully, earning their trust and learning about their personal problems — something they may not ordinarily divulge to doctors. With this information, he says, he can determine on a case-by-case basis how individuals can be helped.

Jailson Antonio de Oliveira is one of those who opened up to Palhaco, or clown, Falcone. He says that "thanks to Flavio Falcone I am now living a better life." He's managed to kick his drug addiction and now lives with his girlfriend. He is incredibly thankful for Falcone's help. The Palhaco tattoo on his wrist bears testimony to his gratitude.

The number of homeless people has spiked in Brazil ever since the coronavirus outbreak began. When the government axed emergency funding for the poor in late 2020, matters worsened. In Cracolandia, many people — drug users and non-drug users alike — now have to make do with basic plastic shelters.

Falcone chose the clown character also because of its tragicomic nature. He says this captures the essence of life in Cracolandia. "Clowns are about revealing mistakes," he says. This, Falcone says, speaks to all those who have been tempted to use drugs and are now being failed by the Brazilian state.