Making a splash
November 4, 2011Just like gorging on chocolate eggs at Easter or throwing tinsel all over the place at Christmas, Berliners launching themselves at the nearest body of water come summer is an annual inevitability.
Berlin is probably just as well known for its vast green spaces as it is for its dog muck and Berliners are spoiled when it comes to swimming in lakes. From wildly popular tourist spots like Wannsee and Schlachtensee to more off-the-beaten-path retreats such as Plötzensee and Haussee, there's no shortage of outdoor spots to take a refreshing dip and cool off from another roasting, inner-city summer.
But as the clocks are turned back and the temperature nosedives, changing into skimpy swimwear and dive-bombing into Halensee suddenly becomes an impossibility - unless of course you happen to have a pick axe handy to crack through the ice. But even then it's not advisable.
But before you get overcome with a wave of panic at the thought of spending half the year dry, fear not because Berlin is just as well served by swimming pools as it is by lakes. And needless to say, they come in all shapes and sizes.
Retreat for mind and body
The organization responsible for all of Berlin's public swimming pools is the Berliner Bäder-Betriebe (Berlin Pools Concern), which currently manages more than 35 indoor swimming pools scattered throughout the capital.
Founded in 1996, the BBB is the largest organization of its kind in Europe, employing some 750 people who serve approximately 7 million visitors per year. But Berlin, as we know, is all about diversity and with pools located in all districts of the city, the choice available ranges from hideous concrete cavities filled with water to opulent temples of design.
Arguably one of the highlights is the Stadtbad Neukölln (City Baths Neukölln). Historically, Neukölln was one of Berlin's most hard up areas, but recent years have seen it rebrand itself as hipster central of the city and the swimming pool here is especially stunning.
Conceived by architect Reinhold Kiehl, the original facility opened in 1914. It was comprised of a neo-classical swimming pool and a public library connected by an atrium - the idea being that a healthy body and a healthy mind belonged together. While the books may long since have vanished, the two spectacular pool areas still exist with vaulted ceilings, Roman columns and intricate mosaic work. If wallowing in warm water and pretending you are a Roman emperor is your thing, then Stadtbad Neukölln is absolutely the place to be.
History lesson included
Another pool of architectural interest is the Stadtbad Spandau Nord at the western end of the city. Typical of early 20th-century Kaiser Wilhelm-era architecture, this no-frills swimming pool has a lofty, vaulted ceiling, vast arched windows, wrought iron balconies and hanging globe lights.
While architecturally much more up to date, the Stadtbad Schöneberg also impresses visually. It's a sprawling swimming center, a monument in glass and chrome, with minimal white tiles and subdued turquoise lighting. Bridges connect the various different pool areas and, in a rare nod to fun, there's even a slide and water fountain.
The district of Charlottenburg boasts two swimming pools: Neue Halle (New Hall) and Alte Halle (Old Hall). Needless to say, it's the old hall which provides the more fantastic swim experience. The turn-of-the-century vaulted and tiled entrance area opens out onto an enormous pool area with a high glass ceiling reminiscent of a Victorian train station and an upper-level observation balcony featuring tiled porthole windows and vast murals featuring Biblical scenes.
Just don't have too much fun
Germans, of course, are notorious for their seriousness and swimming in Berlin is no exception; few of these pools tolerate the dive-in-screaming-and-try-to-drown-your-mates approach that many of us may be familiar with. Rather, they are tranquil places where you go to do but one thing: swim. But this no nonsense approach is perfect if all you want to do is get in 20 lengths or so on the way to work.
A good number also boast saunas, steam rooms, massage therapies and tanning centers since Germans love indulging in spa treatments so much that they invented a fake English word for them: wellness.
So no need to feel glum that summer is over because swimming needn't be a no-no during the colder months. And there's nothing like a steamy hall full of half-naked people to cure the winter doldrums.
Gavin Blackburn is a keen swimmer - when he can be bothered to drag himself to the pool, that is.
Editor: Kate Bowen