San Sebastián: surf, supper and sights

The Spanish royal family made San Sebastián their summer residence over 100 years ago. Back then, the sophisticated sea resort with its Belle Époque style spas, hotels and casinos was a popular destination for the European gentry. These days thousands of people flock to the beaches within the city's vicinity – to the famous La Concha Bay and Santa Clara Island.

Between the sea shore and the town a car-free promenade stretches over six Kilometers (3.1 miles). From the surfer's beach "La Zurriola," it curves around Mount Urgull with its giant waves and past the Construcción Vacía (Empty Structure) sculpture by Jorge Oteiza. There are more sculptures as you continue along the bay of La Concha all the way to Mount Igueldo.

On a map, the city's old town quarter is laid out like a chess board, as it needed to be completely rebuilt after a fire in 1813. The culinary heart of San Sebastian, the "Fermín Calbetón" street draws lots of visitors. In the many bars, the counters are weighed down with all the local delicacies from anchovies on white bread to Chorizo bites.

"Pintxo" look like kabobs - bite-sized snacks on wooden skewers. An uncomplicated manner to enjoy cleverly prepared prawns, squid, fried peppers or bits of meat. The "sociedad gastronómica", exclusively male local cooking clubs dating back to the 19th century, are part of culinary history here. There are thought to be some 200 of these. How many of the 12,000 men actually cook at home is unknown.

"Plaza de la Constitución", located in the middle of the old town quarter, is where the big festivals are celebrated. The house facades remind you that this place was once a bullfighting ring. The numbers that are painted on balconies here used to correspond to the numbers on the viewer's tickets.

The bloody spectacle of bull fighting has been banned in San Sebastián since 2012, but during the big festivals mock-up bulls can be seen, like during the "Semana Grande," great week festival. Every year in August the city marks Virgin Mary's day with the biggest celebration, involving lots of concerts, sporting events and a huge fireworks display.

At the foot of Mount Urgull, you find the "Wind Comb" sculpture by Basque artist Eduardo Chillida (1924-2002) – made up of two massive iron structures that look like tongs that are moving towards each other through the wild surf of the Atlantic. This artist loved his hometown and bestowed on it several of his works. There is a museum dedicated to him in the nearby village Hernani.

Surfers from around the world head to "La Zurriola" beach. The season runs from spring until the autumn. And where surfers congregate there is always a party, like the "Olatu Talka Festival" which this year takes place from May 20-22. An added advantage for surfers is that San Sebastián is close to other popular beaches in the Basque region: Mundaka, Zarautz and Biarritz in neighbouring France.

The annual "Jazzaldia" jazz festival is one of the city's cultural highlights. Stars like Ella Fitzgerald, Miles Davis, Diana Krall or Keith Jarred have graced the stage here. In 2016 the year of the European Culture Capital, the festival will be taking place from July 20-25. Some concerts are open air on the beach and admission is free.

Mount Igueldo offers the best view of the "La Concha" crescent shaped bay with its Santa Clara island. To coincide with its connotation as European Culture Capital, a new Basque region trekking route with 32 stages was created. In different places along the route hikers will be treated to installations and surprise performances.