Postcard from Spain

From bombings to uncovering secrets of Franco's dictatorship, from dramatic changes of government to the David Beckham circus pitching up in town, Danny Wood has reported on a wide range of issues. Now though, he's upping sticks and heading to the US, but not before sending us a final postcard with memories of his time in Spain.

Madrid is a late night city, so it's appropriate I'm writing this final postcard at one o'clock in the morning. Final, because after seven years in Spain filing reports, I'm leaving for good!

On a much later morning in July 2002, after arriving from London, the phone woke me up and I found myself in a live two-way, explaining a dramatic conflict over a tiny rock off the coast of Morocco. Spain was retaking the quaintly named Parsley Island from Moroccan soldiers and I managed to at least sound like I might know what I was talking about.

Since then the big news stories have included, footballer David Beckham's arrival in 2003, the train bomb attacks in 2004 by local Islamic militants that killed nearly 200 people and now the economic crash that has sent Spain from being Europe's top performing economy to a struggling one.

Diverse reporting

It is strange when one day you could be interviewing David Beckham, the next day talking to a victim of a terrorist attack. But those contrasts make freelance reporting very interesting, and Spain has no shortage of contrasts.

On the one hand it's Europe's top tourist destination with plenty of beaches, fiesta and fun, but it's also the home of ETA, the last active, European guerrilla movement that continues to murder with its bombs.

There are also unusual feature stories to seek out – for example, Europe's largest colony of vultures just north of Madrid who were starving under a law designed to stop mad cow disease. Or recurring favorites, like the controversy over how to deal with tens of thousands of unidentified bodies, still in mass graves all over the country, victims of the Civil War and reprisals under the former dictator General Francisco Franco.

But during my seven Spanish years, the most noticeable change – certainly here in Madrid - has been the big rise in the number of immigrants. When I arrived it was still unusual to see African people for example. Now, after experiencing Europe's most rapid rise in immigration, the city is as cosmopolitan as anywhere in Europe.

Political changes

I also saw a conservative government establishing Spain on the world stage by befriending US President George Bush and helping his war on terror. Then under a Socialist government, the opposite; championing the cause of those who opposed the invasion of Iraq. Both demonstrated Spain's growing confidence, in tune with its then growing economy.

Since then, the economic crash has been a big blow, perhaps more so, especially psychologically, than in other European countries. With the millions of unemployed you get the impression that a certain confident Spanish swagger has disappeared.

Personal memories

I've already said goodbye to Joaquin the waiter in my favorite restaurant, Sanabresa, to Carmen and Jose at their fruit stall in the rundown old market on Calle Embajadores and to the chicken man, who's name I never knew. I expect I will have a farewell drink with my butcher Mariano and his wife Joanna. They've all kept me fed, entertained and featured in many reports as the voice of the people.

They exemplify one of those special things about Spain - its friendly, inclusive atmosphere that you encounter in the local markets, in bars and restaurants. It is true that the cafes and bars seem oblivious to the day of the week, lively with chatty, happy people, of all ages, including small children and grannies and grandpas.

So even though I'm leaving, I'll definitely come back to Spain. Thanks for your attention and hasta luego.

Author: Danny Wood
Editor: Rob Turner